Why Black Skin Also Needs Sunscreen
Photos Getty Images
Words Anthony Vincent
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Protection against sunburn and skin cancer, but also hyperpigmentation.
"You're black, so you don't need sunscreen." Every summer, I hear the same refrain when I spread sunscreen on myself in front of amused and intrigued friends. Contrary to popular belief, black and dark skin are also at risk of sunburn, skin cancer and premature skin ageing. Sun protection and controlled sun exposure help fight against these harmful effects, and the other common annoyance of dark skin in the sun: hyperpigmentation.
Where does the idea that black skin doesn’t need sunscreen come from?
The darker the skin, the more melanin it contains. This protective pigment shields deeper skin cells like an umbrella. This is why the most pigmented skins are naturally more resistant to the sun than the lighter ones. But this resistance doesn’t immunise them against sunburn or skin cancer. Especially since skin defences weaken if black or dark-skinned people live in a cold or temperate climate. As strong sunshine doesn’t last all year round and the sun is primarily responsible for the production of melanin, dark skin still needs to protect against UV rays.
A different sunburn
Those with dark skin who live in a cloudy climate all year round are at risk of sunburns when they go on vacation under the tropical sun. Strong and brutal sunlight on unprotected skin that is not used to it will burn it..
As with all other skin colours, sunburns on black or dark skin are primarily manifested by a burning sensation, even after it’s no longer exposed to the sun. If it doesn't necessarily turn red, it may become darker or lighter the same day, then begin to scab and peel throughout the following days. We’re all equal when it comes to sunburns.
Stubborn pigment spots
Black and dark skin tans just like any other skin colour. In a country close to the equator where the sun is particularly strong all year round, dark skin stays tanned thanks to the inevitable exposure. While that leaves skin less prone to sunburning, there’s still an interest in protecting itself to fight against premature skin ageing and pigment spots. These occur or worsen especially at the level of scars or old pimples. The sun will then imprint them on the skin like a misspelt tattoo that you quickly regret.
Which SPF to choose for black skin
Sun protection is chosen according to skin colour and sensitivity, but also the strength of the sunshine and the altitude. The safest choice is to opt for a broad spectrum sun protection. This will protect skin from UVB rays, the main culprits of sunburns, and UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin, age it prematurely and can cause cancer. Luckily, we have an SPF 30 version of our Mattifying Face Moisturiser..
Overall, the higher the SPF, the more the skin is protected. Unless your skin is particularly sensitive or has other specific contraindications, black skin needs an SPF that’s equal to or less than 30.
How to avoid a white cast from your sunscreen
When it comes to natural sunscreens, mineral filters leave white residues. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the most commonly used mineral ingredients that tend to leave a white cast on your skin. They are harmless to the environment but may make you look like a zebra. Some sunscreens with mineral filters claim not to leave a white cast. This is usually either because they are tinted (but their supposedly universal shade is rarely suitable for black skin so be sure to test on your skin before buying one), or because the protective ingredients are so finely ground that they can act as nanoparticles. While the safety of nanoparticles in sunscreen is still debated, you run little risk as long as you don't use it on damaged skin.
As for sunscreens with chemical filters, invisible but sometimes denounced for environmental reasons, more and more products are being carefully formulated and tested so as not to damage the aquatic fauna and flora (or your skin, of course). As this question matters to more and more citizens, sunscreens that are eco-friendly clearly are claiming this on their packaging labels. These types of products are the easiest to turn to protect yourself effectively without going white or damaging the environment, such as Avène’s SPF 30 sun oil or the Waterlover SPF 30 sun milk from Biotherm..
Resistant but not immune, black skin benefits most from a sunscreen with an SPF between 15 and 30 as a sure way to prevent skin cancer, sunburning, and hyperpigmentation. Then it’s safe to bask in the sun!